Wow, what an exciting time to be in Zimbabwe. I just so happen to have arrived a week before their presidential election. In most countries - Canada for example - elections are boring affairs unless you're a political junky like me. But here it's a matter of whether dictator Robert Mugabe allows free and fair elections (which he would undoubtedly lose), or whether he appoints himself another term and faces the possibility of violence, or even a coup. I've got a bigger post on this coming up, but for now let's just say I'm having the time of my life. Just so everyone is not worrying, the place I'm staying is a tourist haven and there's no chance of violence here.
I crossed the border into Zimbabwe yesterday, and immediately noticed a shift in the mood. Whereas border officials in other African countries so far were laid back, friendly, almost lacadaisical, the guys here were clearly on ego trips and determined to make me understand that their balls are bigger than mine. But again, my belief that you can change anyone's mood with a smile and a few jokes was vindicated and I was on my way with no problem (except maybe for the $65 visa cost... ouch). Again, I was taking 'public transport', and as soon as I crossed the gate to where the minibuses were waiting, I think all the guys were thinking, "Ahh, here comes another stupid wet-behind-the-ears tourist." The first guy wanted $40 US to take me the 70 km to Victoria Falls. I laughed in his face and told him I could buy a car here for that. Stupid tourist delusion shattered.
I found a different minibus and the guy asked for $10. Got him down to $6. Minibus taxis only leave when they're full, so as we were waiting the original guy started to get pissed off that he was first in line and that we should all move over to his cab (he was acting like a madman, actually). After he moved his bus to block our bus, to my surprise people actually rewarded this bad behaviour and moved to his taxi. I reluctantly followed. As soon as i got in, the passengers asked about the price, which he said was $4.50. Notice a discrepancy here? He didn't seem to care that he just admitted he was ripping me off. The passengers refused to pay this much and wanted to pay $3. After some talk in Ndebele (the local language) they calmed down, which I'm guessing meant they agreed on $3 but he didn' t want me to know.
When I got out of the cab I paid him the $6, telling him "I know you're ripping me off, but we agreed on $6 and I'm going to keep my word." My honestly was met with silence and a look of disdain. Asshole (Hmm, maybe I am a stupid tourist?)
Haven't seen much of town on account of my other project, to be explained later, but I have learned a few things. The country is an economic disaster. I changed $100 US yesterday and got 3 one-inch stacks of 10 million Zim Dollar bills. And they just dropped 3 zeros from the currency! Talk about inflation. As soon as I leave the hostel, I'm swarmed by peddlers trying to sell wood carvings. When I decline they ask for my sunglasses, t-shirts and such. Clearly this is out of desperation as people can no longer afford to live (Time for a goverment change, perhaps?)
Anyway the hostel I'm staying at is really nice, despite the power being out most of yesterday, and I've met a few cool people. Looking forward to meeting up with the Namibia tour people yet again tonight on their last night of the tour, and to seeing Vic Falls after this! Off to it...
ps. Still no chance to get pictures up - the computers are getting more and more dated as I travel East. But hopefully tomorrow.
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